Fourth-generation vigneron Fabien Coche joined his family's Meursault domaine, Coche-Bizouard, in 1995, renaming it eponymously in 2020. The Coche family are an institution in Meursault, with Fabien’s cousin Raphael now running Coche-Dury, which was part of Coche-Bizouard until the 1940s. Since taking over from his father, Fabien has built a reputation for making taut, precise Meursault from the family’s 12-hectare domaine.
Although the domaine is certified organic from the 2023 vintage, Fabien has practised organic farming since the early 2000s. Over half of the vineyards are over 60 years-old and comprise eight hectares of various lieux-dits and 1er Crus in Meursault. These are split into 40 parcels, including a rare parcel of Meursault Rouge. The remainder are spread across nearby Côte de Beaune villages.
The Bourgogne ‘Côte d’Or’ Chardonnay hails from seven parcels within Meursault. The grapes are whole-bunch pressed and spend 16 months on lees post-fermentation, including six months in stainless steel before bottling without fining or filtration. Remarkably complex, with vibrant acidity, it delivers well above its Bourgogne Blanc classification.
Fabien’s style of Meursault is restrained and elegant, achieved in part by keeping new oak to a maximum of 25% and using larger format barrels to preserve purity and tension in the wines. The Meursault blends two parcels, from adjoining climats, in the north of the appellation. Aged for 18 months in 228-500-litre barrels (25% new oak), the resulting wine is precise and textured with an underlying nutty depth. The Meursault ‘Clos du Pré de Manche’ hails from a tiny clos planted in 1945 on a gentle, south-facing slope. These were the first vines Fabien’s grandfather ever bought. Here, the stony soils contribute a lively tension and powerful concentration to the finished wine, balanced by layers of ripe stone fruit and a lingering, mineral finish.
The fruit for Fabien’s Bourgogne ‘Côte d’Or’ Pinot Noir is sourced from 35–65-year-old vines across four parcels, three in Meursault and one in Pommard. The grapes are de-stemmed and fermented in stainless steel, with no punch downs, which Fabien believes ensures greater purity of fruit. Accessible, yet complex, it is defined by notes of bright cherry fruit and a hint of spice. Fabien is among a handful of names to produce a Meursault Rouge, his cousin being another. His plot is in the northern part of Meursault. Here, a vein of limestone marl extends down from the ‘Santenots’ 1er Cru in Volnay, which perfectly suits Pinot Noir. The grapes are de-stemmed before fermentation, followed by a gentle extraction and ageing in 500-litre barrels. Layers of bright cranberry and cherry fruit are enhanced by a lifted acidity and fine, structured tannins.
