There's an almont marine intensity to this, like a sea-glass pebble dropped into a rough and fashioned clay mug of dried-orange, wakame seaweed and nettle tea. Grapefruit tucked into dunegrass green. It has density and lime-leaf texture, and - always the mark of a truly oustanding white wine - is as complex and balanced at room temperature as it is cold. No hurry to drink it, although it would be hard to resist right now