Jochen Dreissigacker farms 45 hectares of vineyards in the Rheinhessen, 55% of which are planted with Riesling. All his wines are certified organic, an approach that Jochen describes as “the artisan path to purity” and he has since also implemented biodynamic principles to create optimal conditions for grapes to thrive. Focussing on improving vineyard practices is, as Jochen explains, “a long-term investment in nature and wines”. This extends further to reducing yields in the vineyard by creating a much healthier soil, which in turn lowers vine vigour. “The path to any truly great wine is to limit the amount of grapes that are allowed to ripen,” says Jochen.
As expected from an organic estate, Jochen’s approach in the cellar is as natural as possible, using only indigenous yeast fermentations and minimal intervention. All his wines, except for the Auslese, are fermented fully dry. The optimal position of his vineyards, low yields and Jochen’s determination to pick at optimum ripeness ensures full flavour and eliminates any need for residual sugar to balance unripe flavours.
The ‘Organic’ Riesling is ripe, clean, scented and zesty, offering outstanding value. The ‘Bechtheimer’ Riesling, sourced from a selection of Jochen’s vineyards in the village of Bechtheim, is fuller, richer and more complex, but similarly bone dry with fantastic ageing potential. The ‘Wunderwerk’ Spätburgunder (aka Pinot Noir) is aged for three years in small oak barrels, one-third of which are new. It is scented, supple and lively, offering a wonderfully pure Pinot Noir from this outstanding producer.
Jochen’s latest project, ‘Vintages’, reinforces his reputation for innovation. Inspired by the meticulous work of the cellar masters in Champagne, Jochen is determined to showcase that still wines can gain depth and complexity from the skilful art of blending different, but complementary, vintages. `Vintages` Riesling is a pure, dry wine blending the uniqueness of five harvests, achieving the fine ripe aromas from 2017, the balance from 2018, the elegance from 2019, the mineral freshness from 2020 and the youthful aromatics from 2021. `Vintages` red is a harmonious ensemble of St. Laurent and Spätburgunder from 2018 and 2017. Fermented separately before blending and ageing in barriques for three years, this multi-vintage wine has a fruit-driven bouquet and a silky palate.
The newer addition of Auslese Riesling offers a soundly aromatic sweet wine with hints of luscious honey made with specially selected, extra-ripe grapes from the vineyards in Bechtheim. A blend of loess and limestone soils create delicate floral aromas, while sharp acidity complements the fine sweetness of this Riesling, resulting in a harmonious, lively Auslese with only 7% abv.
