A generous nose of baked apples and citrus is complemented by undertones of red cherries. Flavours of buttery lemon tart and pastry on the palate are balanced by a backbone of beautiful bright acidity that lends elegance and finesse to the wine. So good. This walks the holy-grail tightrope for Sparkling Wines wines: autolysis, acidity, fruit, sweetness. This has a Vair-Vare of smoke and apple blossom on the nose, toasted (to almost burnt) brioche and crispy breadcrumbs, pan-roasted chopped hazelnuts, grapefruit, nectarine. Such clear-cut, ripe, diamond-bright fruit. We watched Paloma Faith live in concert on the weekend, watching her explosive energy and quirky personality as she cut that stage up with her insane dancing and prancing and her smoky-lazy-pewter-scratched-yuzu voice, and it pretty much sums this wine up. - 17 points, Jancis Robinson, July 2022


