Teso la Monja Alabaster is a prodigious and historic wine. Toro has some of Spain's oldest vines, including a few that escaped the scourge of Phylloxera and have been growing, ungrafted, on their own roots for well over a century. Alabaster is the fruit of vines planted before 1915. Truly ancient vines, as well as Toro's arid climate (half Rioja's rainfall) means an infinitesimal crop, so this is a vanishingly rare wine. Keeping such unproductive vines in the ground instead of replanting means the wine is inevitably expensive. Is it worth it? Oh yes! It has utterly extraordinary, deeply black-fruited character, nestled in sumptuous French oak. The tannin texture is like treading barefoot on luxurious, deep-pile carpet. Though massive, concentrated and succulent, it also boasts vibrant acidity that stands it in good stead for cellaring. That said, it doesn't require ageing - decanted, this is hugely impressive now.